![]() Grab your favorite AVR programmer and SOIC probes. ![]() Align the switch PCB so you can push it through its opening (into the housing).Take out the driver PCB stack by gripping the brass knob from the battery side.The amount of force I needed to exert was genuinely frightening. In my case, the driver was glued very heavily. I used blunt-ended bent tweezers wrapped in duct tape. Push down on the driver to pop it out.Put the assembly down on a flat, stable surface.Find an area on the top-side of the driver PCB where no components are installed.Now you have to dislodge the glued-down driver:.Remove the switch bezel and pull the switch PCB out.As a precaution, attach a layer of crumpled aluminium foil (with Kapton tape) on the MCPCB beforehand to protect the LEDs from accidental contact with the iron tip.The LED wires are not long enough to remove the driver while attached.Unscrew the battery tube and the ring from the switch.Be careful not to touch the TIR with fingers or anything dirty. Carefully take out the TIR without breaking the standoffs by pulling it straight out.But I will the next time I visit her.ĭisassembling and flashing the IF25A was a lovely challenge. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the swapped switch. I hope my description was more or less clear. Even though it was a total accident that I owned a button cap which was “just right for the job” This kind of pre-tensioning combined with the tallness of the cap makes the overall actuation force ridiculously low. The LT1 cap, when inserted in the IF25A, is pressing down on the switch ever-so-slightly all the time (you can see the middle of the rubber cap bulging a little, if you look closely), but not enough to actuate it on its own. So it protrudes pleasantly far from the IF25A body.īut that is only half of the story: Due to the difference between how deeply the switch PCB sits in the LT1 and th IF25A, and between how low-profile the tact-switches themselves are, I gave it a try and the results were awesome!! The LT1 cap is a lot taller than the other one. Remember me mentioning the spare button cap I had for the LT1? That gave me an idea: The diameter of the two caps are the same, so in theory a swap could be possible. And anyway it is part of normal, sensible flashlight design (avoiding accidental presses by avoiding a protruding button), so I guess my brain just filed it under “business as usual, nothing to see here”. Yes, I did look at multiple photos before making the purchase, but you know… on 2D images, this is not that apparent. Grandma’s fingers are …well… what is the opposite of “firm”? Squishy? Anyway, the point is she has great difficulty operating any controls which are recessed. (Which I am sure also contributed to why the act. What I was a lot more worried about was how low-profile the button cap was on the IF25A. The actuation force out-of-the-box felt passable, but not great. Well… I was not impressed TBH, but once again, that was partly my fault. I prefer them to the LH351Ds in my LT1 (at any tint mix).Ībout the button characteristics, actuation force etc.: Like some of you had mentioned, the beam indeed turns greenish at super-low levels, but even at a ramp level of 30 it is very nice already. When shining it on red(ish) colored objects, they really pop, not washed out at all. It is difficult to put it into words but their beam looks just very pleasant and natural. I chose the 4000k variant, and man, do I love those SST20 emitters! ![]() the “spikes” in the current draw every 8s). Standby drain 31uA with the switch light turned OFF, 290uA during ADC measurements (i.e. The beam shape is lovely: floody and homogenous. ![]() Lubricant applied to the tube threads at the factory. Machining quality looked nice, no sharp edges. I read the product listing and multiple reviews beforehand, all of which stated the list of bundled accessories accurately.īut apparently I failed to acknowledge that information, because I just assumed all Sofirn lights would come with the same extras. With my LT1, I’d received an extra USB port cover and button cap (more on that later).įor the IF25, they were not included, only the extra O-rings, battery sleeve, lanyard and cable. The unboxing experience was a bit of a disappointment (in terms of the included accessories). No extra hassle with Customs when the package arrives in the destination country. To my fellow Europeans: The webshop is wired into IOSS, i.e. Shipping provider: YanWen, tracking available, TN: Ux………YP. OK, let’s start with my own impressions on the IF25A:
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